Mont Rocher, Carignan, Pays D’oc, France

For a long time Carignan was largely dismissed as a useful but not very exciting grape variety and indeed when cropped heavily it can produce pretty ordinary wines. When the vines are older and produce smaller crops it can make wine with a great deal more character. This one is labelled Vieilles Vignes (Old Vines) - how old is old depends a bit on whether you are buying or selling - and there is lovely concentration here, red berry fruit flavours and a touch of vanilla. Mont Rocher is a small range of wines made from grapes bought from small producers and made to reflect their Languedocian origins but with a more modern twist.