It's undeniable. There is a certain chill to the air. Harvest is starting around mainland Europe. So here are some wines, a bakers dozen, that we'll be drinking that lean into the change of season.
White wines - as the temperature drops, we're going to be enjoying whites that are a bit richer and broader:
Quinta das Maias, Maias Blanco, Dao, Portugal - new in, a white made with traditional varietals that carries a bit of weight
Nibiru, Schönberg Gruner Veltliner, Kamptal, Austria - the latest vintage of this wonderfully gastronomic Grüner from Josef Schenter and Julia Nather.
Soalheiro, Terramatter 2023, Vinho Verde, Minho, Portugal - This wine is made from Alvarihno, a grape variety known as Albariño over the border in Spain, which is just the other side of the Minho river from the Soalheiro vineyards. Pithy, textural, a touch tropical. A truly delicious expression of Alvarinho, perfect with seafood, particularly richer fish, or even cured meat, lamb, mushrooms and root vegetables.
Vigneti Tardis, Mercoledi, Paestum Fiano, Campania, Italy - Jack Lewins, former sommelier and now the co-owner of Leroy in Shoreditch, and Bruno (Mr Aglianico) de Concillis are the two driving forces behind Vigneti Tardis made from grapes grown in Cilento, a region of Campania around two hours drive south of Naples. Mercoledi (Wednesday) is made from Fiano fermented in steel tanks and then kept on the lees for extra complexity and texture.
Orange wines - we love an orange in the sun but they are super-versatile so stand up well to cooler climes too:
Colombo, There's Something About You, Elgin, South Africa - Daniel sums up his ethos and style rather wonderfully - "Daniel Colombo is a winemaker. He makes wines that he wants to drink himself, but when other people like to drink them too then that is actually quite lovely. Daniel uses a style called minimal intervention which means his wines don't have lots of different things in them, just grapes really. He enjoys drinking wines that are fresh and friendly, so those are the kind of wines he makes.
Heinrich, Naked Orange, Neusiedlersee-Hügelland, Burgenland, Austria - Two weeks on the skins and 18 months between amphora and big ol' oak barrels made with super lo-fi winemaking. Zesty, juicy blood orange and citrus fruit.
Rosé - because pink wine is not just for summer, especially when it's got a bit more guts like this one:
A'vita, Rosato, Calabria IGP, Italy - A'vita is a young project based in the wild, rolling hills of Ciro, Calabria, nestled between the Ionian Sea and the Sila mountains where they grow only grapes native to Calabria: Gaglioppo, Magliocco, Greco nero and Greco Bianco which give the best representation of their terroir. 12 hours of maceration on the skins is followed by spontaneous fermentation in stainless steel before aging for several months in steel tanks. Expect aromas of wild strawberries and raspberries, and great freshness and minerality on the palate with gentle tannins. Great with rich and robust meat dishes like beef stew.
Red wines - the feather-weight reds were great for the hottest days but now we're looking for something with a bit more flesh:
Castro Ventosa, El Castro de Valtuille, Bierzo, Spain - Castro Ventosa has been run by the Perez family since 1752 and the cellar is now run by Raul Perez’s nephew Cesar Marquez, a true master of Mencia, a grape sometimes likened to Pinot Noir. but that we feel has a bit more heft, especially when the vines are as venerable as the they are at Castro Ventosa.
Marabino, Rosso di Contrada, Sicily, Italy - Marabino means 'land of the beloved sun' and is a project run by Pierpaolo Messina in the southeastern most tip of Sicily, Val di Noto. This is a beautifully balanced Nero d'Avola.
A Pie de Tierra, El Surco, Méntrida, Sierra de Gredos, Spain - did we need another Garnacha from Sierra de Gredos? No, but this is a lovely expression of the grape and the granitic soils, more of an infusion style than heavily extracted. Enjoy served a little chilled on warmer days.
Lavradores de Feitoria, Tinto, Douro, Portugal - The Lavradores de Feitoria is a true cooperative. Founded in 2000, it consists of 20 like-minded farmers and growers, all of whom are shareholders giving them a vested interest in striving for quality fruit to be able to make authentic blends of the Douro region.
Mother Rock, Empire of Dirt Cabernet Franc, Swartland, South Africa - Cabernet Franc from 12 year old vines just 3km from the Atlantic, made by Stompy Meyer. This is everything we love in a Cab franc - fruit forward, with raspberry and cherry leading the way alongside thyme, white pepper and chalky tannins. Great a little chilled.
Fizz - and finally, for perhaps the last barbecues of the year, a sparkling red from Northern Spain:
Lobban Wines, La Pamelita, Catalunya, Spain - Originally from Aberdeen, Pamela Geddes spent five years in Australia mastering the craft of sparkling reds before finding a home in Barcelona. La Pamelita is her signature fizz, mostly Syrah with a splash of Garnacha, made in the traditional method and spending 36 months in bottle on the lees. Packed full of dark brambly fruit, black pepper and a great complexity that is rare for sparkling reds. Dangerously delicious!
Image: Marisa, one of the Glou crew, harvesting at Commonwood Vineyard in 2023, a small vineyard a few miles from us where we have helped out over the last few years. Fingers crossed for another great harvest this year!