Not for oligarchs. For wine lovers.
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We love red Burgundy as much as the next man. Yeah, OK. Maybe more. But unless the next man is an oligarch with their own personal oil well & very deep pockets, the big names of the Côtes d'Or & Nuits are a once in a blue moon treat. Which is where wines like this from less ritzy appellations come in. Especially when they're wines made by families like the Goisots.
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History has dealt them a less fortunate hand. They could have been making Chablis but the land they farm, a few km to the east, was pushed out of that appellation at the end of the 19th century so their Chardonnay, Aligoté & Pinot Noir can only be labelled Bourgogne Côtes d'Auxerre & their Sauvignon Blanc, though as good as many Sancerre, is 'just' Saint Bris. Jean-Hugues was one of the earliest adopters of biodynamic viticulture which is carried on by his son Guilhem, bringing life and biodiversity to the deep, chalky soils of their vineyards.
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There are no benefits to man-made climate change but one of the effects is that in northern outlier regions like Côtes d'Auxerre where it was a struggle to ripen red grapes before, it's now possible to make Pinot Noir like this. Fragrant, pure, wild blackberry fruit, touch smoky, ripe and juicy, chalky tannins. And you don't need a diamond mine to afford it.
